I had intended to do a trek to Machu Picchu from Cusco, and signed up for the 5 day Salkantay on a bit of a whim, when 2 girls from my dorm said they were. Yep, sorry; another post which isn’t about running. We had a briefing 2 days before departure where we heard about the cold, altitude, bugs and other highlights. The next day was spent shopping for trek essentials: alpaca gloves and hats; toilet paper and coca leaves.

The first day of the trek consisted of a car journey from Cusco to the mountains where we would begin the walking with a short 3 hour walk to our first camp. As the hike began, we were all acutely aware of the altitude as we wheezed our way up the first hill. At the first rest point, everyone looked around and was relieved that they weren’t the only one struggling.
As the terrain flattened out, the walking became more chilled and I was getting to know everyone in the group better. We arrived at our first camp to an amazing 2 course lunch and warming coca tea to help with the altitude. We had been warned about the cold but I wasn’t quite prepared for the reality (must have been the cocky Geordie within me). It was a beautiful spot for our first night camping, especially once I had layered up in all of my clothes. I can’t remember the last time I have seen the stars so clearly.

Day 2 began with coca tea at 4.30am, an early start for the toughest day of trekking. Energised from a breakfast of pancakes and hot chocolate, we set off and started chipping away at the 22km we had to cover. The first four hours were a 700m climb through the rugged terrain to the summit of the Salkantay pass, at over 4600m. I know I bang on about altitude a lot but it doesn’t half make you feel unfit. When you stop to catch your breath (ha), you are suddenly aware of how hard your heart is pounding, even more so than a love struck young raver (I would imagine). The sense of achievement when we reached the summit and drank a carton of peach juice was fantastic, maybe as good as some feelings of said raver.

We still had 6 hours of walking left that day, and began our descent into the cloud forests and jungle below. It was incredible how the stark and snowy mountain landscapes changed so quickly into lush, tropical jungle. From a few prickly shrubs at the summit, we were soon (a few hours on) walking through thick vegetation of passion fruits, banana trees and orchids.

The next 2 days hiking were not so long compared to the previous, but with our aches and pains and longing for toilet seats, were still tough. The morale and support from the group kept everyone going, and we were all so grateful for the great company in the group and from our guide, Yuri. I was lucky to not be too badly affected by the altitude, tummy upsets, mosquito bites or sunburn, but some others were suffering quite badly. I was really impressed by everyone’s spirits and determination despite their ailments. The amazing food also kept our spirits up; we had a daily tea party with popcorn, hot chocolate and biscuits. Every meal was at least 2 courses and the best food I have ever eaten to have been cooked in a mud hut/tent.

As the trek progressed we had more treats in store, including a visit to some hot springs where we could soak our aching feet and bodies. I also had the chance to go zip-lining across the valley of Santa Theresa, which was amazing. Our final stretch of walking took us through the jungle, following the train tracks to Aguas Calientes, the town closest to Machu Picchu. Here we were greeted with a hostel boasting wifi and toilet seats. Utterly content, we bed down ready for the pinnacle of our mission the following day.

We woke at 3.45, our earliest start yet. This was so that we could enter Machu Picchu before the hoardes which descend on it every day. We were through the gates just after 6am and the sight as we turned the first corner could only be met with gasps and sighs. The lost Inca city was bathed in clouds which were gently rising around us, a truly magical spectacle. As the clouds cleared over the next few hours, those postcard views became a reality, and I felt like a very lucky girl.